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  • Welcome to PostcardsFromTheNet
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    • eating
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    • Global Entry, Nexus, SENTRI, TSA: It’s all so CLEAR
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PostcardsFromTheNet - Traveling the world, sleeping, eating and racing!
Milan

Milan by Night

September 4, 2017by Christopher FreemanNo Comments

There is something about the Milan night sky. Maybe it’s something about this particular latitude? No, because Nice and Monaco had the same beautiful blue sky late at night. Maybe it’s the ocean air? No, Milan is quite a ways inland and no ocean breeze to speak of.

Maybe is the air quality? No, Milan reportedly has pretty bad air compared to Nice and Monaco. So pollutants are not making a difference here. Well then can someone lend a hand here and identify what’s the key feature of Milan night sky that makes it such a brilliant blue? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and enjoy the slide show…

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II at night
Outdoor dining under the eye of il Duomo
Eataly Smeraldo
Porto Girabaldi
Corso Como
Via Curdosio

 

Milan

Teatro alla Scala

September 4, 2017by Christopher FreemanNo Comments

One of the oldest opera houses in Italy, and the oldest in Milan, Teatro alla Scala, The Scala, was first opened in August of 1778. Second in age only to Teatro di San Carlo in Naples, born 1737, The Scala has just completed a major renovation, and it shows. Although the house still reflects classic 17th century design, the furnishings are all new and feel clean and modern, and not like an old building hanging on to its glory. The design of the house is classic early theater: An orchestra level at the base, and surrounding levels of boxes and gallery seating. It’s also a sad statement of the separation of classes from back in the day. Are you kidding? Mingle with those low class street people? As if! OK, joking aside, it’s a large, lovely palace of fine art, and it was quite a thrill to be in such a historic opera house. And the other cool aspect was that it is just a few blocks few the Park Hyatt hotel, so an easy breezy walk of a couple of blocks through downtown Milan brought you home to brass and red velvet.

I selected gallery level seats for our viewing of Hansel and Gretel. I was in fact disappointed that the gallery levels have a brass railing that is right in the sight line of the stage, so you’re forced to either duck under them to have a clear view, or sit back with the front of the stage cut off. At six feet tall, I figured I had enough neck to elevate me above the rail, but I got tired of having to lean forward when the actors approached stage front. And what was with those homeless people anyway? From the play, not in the street. Weird. I guess some take on modern times that did not fit in with the play.

Anyway, the view of the house itself is spectacular in the way the boxes wrap around the stage and the gigantic chandelier in the middle. And that chandelier is interesting in its design: more new modern than classic opera house. Glass beads are strung inside the lighting of old style filament bulbs inside clear glass saucers. Interesting in its space age design, but still does the job as the center piece of the theater. The new offering for Alla Scala is each seat has a small digital display. Unfortunately, it did not kick in until half way through the second act to display the words of the opera in English. Good thing I already read the production notes, so I was hip on the acts of the opera. But again, where did those homeless people come from?

True to form though, we did receive a taste of ancient Italy in the house. As there’s only a tiny elevator to service Alla Scala at either end of the theater, we took the stairs up to our 5th level gallery seats. The gallery sits two rows deep, and weirdly, the people behind me seemed to sit right mover my shoulder to get a good view. Kinda creepy, but we were all tourists at that point, so deal with it. I just enjoyed being there, in the moment, taking in this Italian wonder.

One insider tip: If you have your tickets, you can go to Alla Scala gift shop and receive your program brochure before the show. I highly recommend this, as it allowed me time before hand to read the Hansel and Gretel production notes. Good thing, the opera was in it’s original German, and I had no idea what was going on from the singing based on the faulty sound system that failed the singers voices at times.

After the show, walking out, it was quite a thrill. All these wonderful Italians chatting away. We walked around the inside, not wanting to leave, taking pictures here and there. It’s a classic opera house in every sense of the word, nothing more, nothing less. But all the moreso. As confusing as that opera 🙂

 

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Empty Hall of Alla Scala
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Milan

Serravalle Outlet Shopping

September 4, 2017by Christopher FreemanNo Comments

As it crazy as it may sound, everyone in Milan kept talking about going out to an outlet center to shop for clothes. As a fan of outlets in Las Vegas and Palm Springs, I was excited about the opportunity to get my hands on some fine Italian goods. Imagine our surprise when this “amazing” outlet center turned out to be the same “amazing” outlet center… as Las Vegas and Palm Springs. Check another box for globalization. I’ll just get my Vans when I get back home.  But that horse in the fountain was unique and inspiring.

The main entry to Serravalle has an almost Disneyland feel about it. Maybe it’s the terracota colors or the faux facades, either way, It’s a Small World Afterall.

The horse is prevalent in Italian culture. It represents both the peace and strength of the people. But ironically, it’s Englishman Nic Fiddian-Green who created this sculpture, Still Water.

Just a little image wizardry. To imply the large cloud of smoke is coming out of the little funnel. Is it an announcement of a new Pope?

These hyper dramatic clouds hung over the location all day, but not a drop of rain fell. It was quite pleasant weather compared to Saturday.

Chips and Fries, or potatoes and chips as the Euros call them at Ham Holy Burger. Yes, this isn’t Milan, so we could finally get a burger with no tourist penalty points assigned.

It was nice to see Gucci featured so prominently, but wondered how it was that the store was situated in the shadow. Although the heavens seem the shine on the global Gucci label, at home, the marquee brand is in the shadows. Well, at least the actual marquee. But I guess since this is the back of the store, that means the entrance is basking in the glow of the heavens. I guess that halo has some real meaning behind it.

Racing, Travel

Driving Around Milan

September 4, 2017by Christopher FreemanNo Comments

Driving around Milan is unlike anything or anywhere I’ve driven before. Feeling the mighty thrust of the 51hp from our Citroen rental, we hit the town and are met with the world’s bumpiest, lumpiest streets. Yes, the cobblestone streets like great in pictures, but driving across their washboard surface is another matter. Maybe that’s why so many people take the trains or just walk.

True to European standards, the streets are narrow, everyone parks everywhere there’s 3 meters to fit a 3 meter car into, and amazingly enough, the drivers are courteous and polite. Our 30 minute drive through the neighborhoods was interesting, and definitely showed us sights we would have otherwise missed, but boy was I happy to get out of that car!

The one bright spot I can for sure recommend, Google map guided us all the way. Make sure you download the local area, and you’re good to go. No need to pay for the rental GPS, unless you plan on multiple, spontaneous destinations. From our hotel, the Park Hyatt in Centro Milano, we downloaded an area that covered a 1 hour drive out of the city, and Google Map provided satellite support all the way. Awesome!

Milan, Travel

Milan in Black and White

September 4, 2017by Christopher Freeman23 Comments

There is nothing more beautiful than a black and white photograph. I don’t want recess of our primitive minds comes out to play when color is removed from life. The dark shadows evokes our id, the bright whites give us hope of some sort. And when black and white is combined with ancient looking ruins, then the feeling is amplified. These photos are some of my favorite from our stop in Milan for the Gran Premio d’ Italia, the Formula 1 Italian Gran Prix at Monza.

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Armani makes an appearance
Via Guiseppe Verdi
Galleria del Toro in the rain
Galleria del Toro in the rain
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Galleria del Toro in the rain
Galleria del Toro in the rain
Galleria del Toro in the rain
Via Varespina – With the Alfa!
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Parmesan grater
Gino’s 1928 silverware
Prada Store in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
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Zodiac Signs
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Hotels, Milan

Park Hyatt Milano

September 4, 2017by Christopher Freeman6 Comments

The Park Hyatt Milano is a five-star hotel that exudes the luxury of upper class travel. Although a little smaller in size than other Park Hyatt properties, mainly due to the size restrictions of Centro Milano, the hotel is still nothing but class. At the entry of the hotel you were greeted by three guard dogs. Don’t worry, they don’t bite. The sculptures by artist Velasco Vittorio are a tribute to the dog friendly aspect of the hotel. They actually have a VID program, Very Important Dog, that offers such pooch pamperings as luxury bedding for your dog, fresh mineral water from designer bowels, and dog sitting services.

Where PHM shines is it’s location. You literally cannot ask for a better location for sight seeing, shopping and dining. Step outside the front door of the hotel, and you’re just feet away from the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a wonderful, beautiful luxurious airy mall housing Italy’s favorite fashions. All the top and designers are here: Gucci, Prada, Dior, etc. But beyond that shopping, there are several eateries, and of course, the Duomo. This is the magic spot for tourists: Shopping, sightseeing, and Italian culture all in one location.

Back in the room, the bed setup is wonderful. A soft, fluffy pillow topping lulls you into a relaxed state as soon as you hit the sheets. A nice digital clock with USB ports to charge you phone. 3 shelves provides ample storage for various keys, change, tickets and any other baggage you feel a need to just dump out but not store away just yet. The pillows are perfect down with foam inserts that do a great job at supporting your sleep. Soft and gentle, yet the firmness is supportive and not a hard rock bottom after a few hours of snoozing. I slept like a baby! If you need more sleep support, there’s the spa downstairs, where the aromatherapy instantly lowers your stress level by 4 to 5 points. They also offer massage and steam rooms to help you unwind. I personally just took a seat in the teak chairs and a deep breath had me in another world realm of peacefulness.

To continue the peaceful trend, roll out of bed and into a luxurious bath. The bath is a full length tub surrounded by fine Italian marble and black ceramic fixtures. If a shower is more your style, then a spacious stand up glass shower will welcome you with a soft flowing rain shower hear, and a hand held soft flow head. A seating area in the shower can help for those days following wild Italian Grappa fueled nights.

 

After you’re up, get going with an in-room coffee via a small Illy coffee maker. The good thing is that there are enough stores next door to buy some new coffee flavors and/or espresso to really get you going. If you’re ready to grab a bite, the hotel is also home to the Michelin star restaurant, VUN Andrea Aprea, the more affordable dining at Dehors, and dining at the bar Mio which includes outside seating. There are also plenty of dining options close to the hotel, just a few minutes of walking and various level of gourmet. Immediately across the street is Granaio. This café/restaurant offers some wonderful dining options, great deserts, and of course, relaxing with Italian coffees in either of two outside seating areas as well as indoor seating. 

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Formula 1, Milan, Racing

Monza – The Temple of Speed

September 3, 2017by Christopher FreemanNo Comments

The Autodromo Nazionale Monza – known as the “Temple of Speed”. The track is about as straight as a “road course” gets. Long straights, with long looping turns at either end. Several chicanes are designed to slow the cars down prior to the turns, in an effort to minimize the off track excursions an F1 car, or any racer for that fact, may take.

The original track was built in 1922. Monza joined the F1 circuit in 1950 as part of a 6 race series under the management of the FIA (Fédération Internationale de l’Automobile).

Of those 6 tracks, Silverstone, Monaco, Spa and Monza are the only ones still running F1 races today. Good news though, after a 10-year or so absence, France will once again host an F1 race. This time, the Paul Ricard circuit will play host.

Monza only the 3rd purpose-built race track in the world, was built at a time when many racing circuits were simply street, Monaco, or country roads that connected small towns, such as Spa and Nurburg. Add to that, Monza actually has 3 tracks intertwined with one another. The F1 circuit, a smaller junior circuit for karting and smaller series racing, and the old oval. But the track is also incredibly dangerous, claiming the lives of over 50 drivers, and 35 or more spectators in past years.

The track is also a favorite or drivers, where 75% of the lap is at full throttle. Going full blast down the straights, F1 cars have topped speeds over 230mph. Modern cars, with more down force and smaller engines, still are hitting over 210mph. And that’s going on for the full length of a race. The lap times are so fast, the race usually last about an hour and 40 minutes. Watching in person, I was amazed at how fast it went. By the time I thought about leaving my seat, I looked up and there were only 5 laps left.

The old Monza oval is still a part of the infield. Although fenced, you see the old track without even realizing it. Looking up at the white wall above the tunnel, you suddenly realize that the banking of the oval. Whoa! Walking along the pit exit, you look over at the corroding concrete and realize its the banking exit on to the old straight. It woven into the fabric of the current track. And presents that interesting conundrum of what to do with history: Leave it and make a monument of it, or tear it down and build anew. At Monza, they’ve opted for C, do both. But looking at these pictures of decaying concrete and rusting rebar, and you have to wonder, how much longer will these banks hold up? Only time will tell.

 

The Monza track experienced a whirlwind of weather race weekend. Saturday morning, we take the train to the Biassono-Lesom Parco station, and walk in through the Lesmo entry. An under-track tunnel leads us to the infield and we watch the first passing of GP2 cars. Ironically, GP2 cars still run normally aspirated V8s, so I get the full force of the racing rumble from the engines. The acceleration coming out of The Lesmos, a double-apex set of turns. I can’t believe I’m actually here! the weather was perfect race weather, a little over cast to keep it cool so walking around the track doesn’t result in drenched sweat-soaked clothes. Great day for racing. But then Saturday morning  wakes up to a torrential down pour resulting in a soaked track, mud pits and first canceled, then delayed qualifying. We tried walking the infield, visiting the Fan Zone and seeing the vendors for hats and shirts. The entire in-field is a mud field. And its a 20-minute walk for our grandstands to get here, but at least there’s some cover for the car displays. Then the clouds open yet again and we decide enough is enough. At this point qualifying has been delayed over an hour and it’s actually getting dark. Oh well, they’ll have qualifying Sunday morning, so lets get going before the crowds swamp us or it turns so bad that we can’t even walk through it. We head out, and sure enough, as we get 5 minutes from the train station, we hear the sounds of screaming, actually sort of a loud whisper, F1 cars climbing over the park walls. Oh well, we’re here now, and since on Saturday they only allow you to go through your designated gates, the thought of that 20-minute walk back was out of the question and Eataly was on our minds.

Saturday we wake to a beautiful day, the heat has returned, so it’s a perfect summer-spring afternoon. Just warm enough to lighten the heart and get us in the mood for some racing. And now, with jackets off, the Tifosi are abundant. Ferrai red is everywhere, and the fans have a lot to cheer for; Vettel and Räikkönen have been right behind the Mercedes or Hamilton and Bottas all weekend, so maybe there’s a shot of getting a good start. Unfortunately, Räikkönen falls behind Ricciardo in the race, but at least Vettel maintains 3rd for a podium and a reason for everyone to head down onto the track at the end of the race. Filling the race track is a fan tradition of the Italian GP. Unlike any other ace, this is 100% fan initiated, and everyone, I mean everyone heads down to the track. If you’re in the grand stands, the life force of everyone getting to the track literally pulls you down onto the asphalt. You can’t help yourself. Who wants to be the guy whogoes all the way to Monza, and then doesn’t go down on the track? Duh! So you go, and it is quite a thrill to be up close and persoanl like this. And then you look down, and notice the cracks in the track. wow, these guys are going flat out at over 200mph, and the track has cracks!?! As if F1 racing wasn’t dangerous enough.

 

Monza signage
Map of the Monza Track
F1 Italia Sign lining the walk way
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Ferrai newest driver joins the line up
Kimi Raikkonenen and Ferrari red
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My American-Italian connection
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Mub race 2017!
Monza Raceway
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1923 Bentley with Mud Tires!
1954 Maserati A6 GCS
Line to the grand stand for Saturday qualifying
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Italian Airforce putting up some colors
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Formula 1, Milan, Racing

2017 Italian GP First Lap

September 3, 2017by Christopher FreemanNo Comments

Here they come, the first lap of an F1 race is always super exciting. Mainly, due to the unknown circumstances that may bode a competitor. And there lies the conundrum of modern F1 racing: Take the most technologically advanced cars in the world…and hope they crash into one another. If yes, exciting and thrilling…and expensive for the teams. If not, well, just another parade of cars going by.

So the Italian Grand Prix is known as the fastest race in F1. The Monza circuit is a throw back to the original F1 series, officially started in 1950, but the cars had been running the basic track since 1922. Monza was the third race-purpose track built in the world. Yes, the world. Meaning as purposely designed and paved for racing. Unlike the circuits of Spa, Belgium and Nurburg, Germany, whose tracks where loops through the country side running between towns at lengths of 10 and 20 kilometers respectively, Monza was the Italian contribution to the desire for speed within a purpose built raceway. The original Monza track, still visible today, had corners banked at some 30 degrees, was an inspiration to NASCAR high speed banked tracks such as Daytona, Darlington and Talladega. Today, those once mighty banks are crumbling to history and neglect.

What we thought would be awesome seats at the first chicane, turned out to be only partially true. Although Turn One is always action packed, check out Palmer into the Barrier at Monaco, since it’s the first braking point after hitting maximum speeds down the main straight, it’s main straight view was unfortunately blocked by trees. What!?! Why??? Oh, so this is how they separate the desirable main grandstand views and offer these seats at a much more discounted price. So everyone thinks, great, I’ll see them coming down the straight, I’ll get to see brake dust flying out as they slam the calipers, but no! You hear them, and then…wait for it…wait for it, they come poking out from behind the trees and into the Turn 1. So when Daniel Ricciardo dives down the inside of Kimi Raikkonen for the pass, you basically see just the tail end of the move. A little anit-climatic in my opinion. But one thing you do get to see, are the cars accelerating out of the turn as they head towards Curva Grande. Seeing an F1 car accelerate in race mode is pretty awesome. Like watching paint dry really, really, really fast. It may not look like much to the untrained eye, but if you’ve been watching racing as long as I have, you see it, and it’s awesome!

Milan

Stazione Centrale Milano

September 3, 2017by Christopher FreemanNo Comments

 

 

 

Eating, Milan

Mangia Italiano Tour 2017

September 2, 2017by Christopher FreemanNo Comments

Of all the places in the world, nothing evokes a passion for food like Italy. After all, if it wasn’t for Italy, what would college kids, single dads and football parties eat? Ya got me. Although Milan surprised me in it’s more broken down look and feel that the Armani-land villa I expected, we still had a fun time with the cuisine. Everything from gelato stops, cannolis and steaks, and even the quintessential pizza had us in heaven for the fresh flavors. Of all things not expected, was my wife’s absolute desire for Chinese food. What? Hello, we are in Milan, home of global fashion and frangipani spaghetti! Oh brother, OK, so we find the sign we passed in the car on the way to the hotel, whatever, it’s our first night and we are trying to settle in. The location of our Hilton hotel is interesting at best. Seemingly in a more industrial part of town, turns out most Milan is just an industrial part of town. Funny thing, sitting in this Chinese restaurant was my first true experience of globalization. This old Chinese lady comes out from the kitchen, same old Chinese lady that comes out from the back of the Chinese restaurant in Los Angeles or San Francisco or New York. And then she starts speaking perfect Italian. Whoa! Mind blown. Awesome! Don’t get me wrong, I know people speak different languages, but this had a different appeal than just a non-native speaking the native language.

Tom and Jerry

Day 1 of the tour, the next morning we wake and venture out once everything is open. We walked past a place called Tom and Jerry. Wait, like the cartoon? Yes. OK, let’s try it. Inside was a dose of Italian hospitality like no other. This place was a mad house of people walking and talking about. The area is industrial, so I’m guessing these are factory workers on lunch break. The host catches our eyes and comes over. I say, “Bone jorno.” “Oh, you’re American. Come on in, sit down.” Wow, was I that obvious. Note to self: watch nothing but Fellini films the month prior to next trip to Italy. We sit, a lady comes takes our order, and everyone is so nice to us, almost apologetic. How cool. My first day in Italy and I’m loving it. We sit there, and I just take in all the patrons sitting, most are at 6 and 8 person tables, just chatting away, hands flailing in the air. I almost start to cry they’re so beautiful. We share a quick pasta dish, very tasty. The pasta is light, the sauce herbal-flavorful, and what the hell, I have a beer…make that a birra, a Moretti. So much better than the bottles back home. Yum!

We spend the day walking around the neighborhood, head into Milano Centro and see Il Duomo for the first time. The galleria Vittorio is pretty spectacular, and then we see the Park Hyatt and realize that in two days, this will be our home. Wow! Pretty cool and bustling scene, but now it’s munchy time…oh! Ferrari Store! We go in and the place is packed, to be expected.

 

Gino’s 1928

We look around for somewhere to eat, and here it is. complete with open store front to the street, my favorite, and hustling waiters and hosts trying to convince you to come in. OK, you got me. Gino’s 1928 is staring us right in the face. We go in, and at first, are seated upstairs. Nice but no cigar. I want to experience Milan and Mangia Italiano, the food as it meets the people. Not tucked away in some dark corner in the VIP section. I let the waiter know we are heading downstairs and are seated right at line between outside and inside. So we see the waiters running around ordering and bussing, but we also see all the fun people walking the street and heading into the Ferrari shop. We order a pizza to share, a couple glasses of wine and extra Parmesan please. What comes out ids just beautiful. The arugula tastes as if just picked. So fresh, and I normally hate the bitter taste of normal store bought Arugula, but this has almost a sweetness to it. And the Mozarello…oh please… best pizza ever. And from a shop in the middle of tourist central, wow, daddy happy!

 

Eataly Milan Smeraldo

Day 3: Tonight we attempt to correct a mistake we made in New York in 2016, Eataly. In New York, this was rated one of the best rooftops to dine. When we got there, we had no idea what we were doing, or where to eat. When we were leaving, we walked past all these little eating stalls, and then realized how big the place was and what was on offer. Now, here we are getting a second chance. The Eataly Milan Smeraldo is a huge location. It sits inside an renovated building, looks to be an apartment complex, taking up the first 3 floors. Replacing the old front facade of brick and mortar with steel and glass, is eye catching and a modern twist on the early century building. Inside is a marketplace, 3 floors of wine and food, and long waiting lines to dine. I grab a white wine from the second floor shop to pair with the quarto-mani pizza we plan to order. A huge Neapolitan pie consisting of four flavors in one pie: Cheese, Feta and Anchovy, Pancetta and mushroom, and a veggie with roasted tomatoes and squash. The pie is huge, 8 pieces in all, so we both got one of each. Needless to say, we were stuffed by the end of it all. And again, the friendliness of the people. We had a problem with the order, and the guy at the table next to us, jumped in to help out speaking with a New York  to clarify the issue. That surprised me, because the whole night he was talking to his buddy in Italian, so was he a New Yorker speaking Italian, or an Italian with a New Yorker accent?

 

Granaio Coffe e Cucina

Day 5: And already,. it’s time to head home. Tonight, we are spending the last in Milan going to Teatro alla Scala, Milan’s grand theater. And to support that, we are having a fine dining experience to say thank you and farewell to Milan. What a wonderful experience it’s been, so let eat at a wonderful cucina we’ve been walking past for the last couple of days. Granaio Coffee e Cucina is located directly across from Park Hyatt, and has both inside and outside seating. We take a seat outside, but of course, and are rewarded with a wonderful filet. Tender and juicy, and perfect medium-rare, it’s so wonderful, combined with the perfect location, a looming sunset and tender tasty spinach with a perfect garlic hint to it. But As much as I love the steak, I’m really looking forward to desert. Inside, the display of Cannoli is just making me drool. So when the waiter asks if we would like desert, oh yes! I order the pistachio per Nancy’s suggestion, and I get not only a great tasting Cannoli, light fluffy creme filling surrounded by a perfectly crisped crust, but I also get one of the best food photos I’ve ever taken. The food, the lighting, all perfect!

 

 

Tom and Jerry Cafe
Tom and Jerry
Milano Wall of Tom and Jerry
Workers are as workers were
Tom and Jerry pasta lunch
From Ferrari to Pizza, with Love
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Fresh Mozarello and Arugula Pizza
Parmesano and Grater
Eataly Milano Smeraldo
Eataly Market
Heading upstairs
3-stories of Eataly Milano Smeraldo
Eataly from the 2nd floor wine garden
Clear acrylic elevators doors
Horizontal floor buttons on acrylic elevator
Eataly Smeraldo Quadrofolgio Pizza
Granaio Caffe e Cucina
Yummy! Italian Macarons!
Filet at Granaio
Tomatoes and Meatballs and Granaio Coffee e Cucina
Granaio Coffee eCucina Cannoli
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Hi! We’re Chris and Nancy!

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We love to go places, meet people and eat food. I also love racing, drinking, not at the same time officer, and sharing interesting stories with fascinating people.

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