If you want to grab a beer in a cool, unseen, crazy dark, spooky underground bar, follow the name and do Delirium. Located just off the Grand Place in downtown Brussels, Delirium pays homage to the world of beer. And it’s an indication as to how big that world is. Maybe it’s more paying homage to the universe of beer. But unlike most beer emporiums these days, this one hearkens back to the dark underworld of beer. I guess that’s why it was voted, no elected, “Best Beer Cafe in the World!” And they have the button sign to prove it! Walking down the steps to the bar, which is always a good thing, it starts off cute and charming. The first floor is for rookies, and college kids from nice families. And then you go deeper, and it gets darker. The second floor starts getting a little darker, quieter, and food. Then there’s the 3rd floor. Now this is a place for some serious beer-ology. Or beerista. Or what ever you call it when you try some of the most exotic beers available…in the world! The varieties of beer here are beyond reproach. I don’t see how anyone can claim they don’t have “their” beer here. I just started ordering by what looked interesting or if the bar tender had a favorite or what met my taste for caramel-amber flavors. I honestly don’t remember what I had, at this point I’m on the third beer stop and the colors are just floating around my head now. The beers were falling fast and furious, at first I tried to order the coolest sign on the wall. After literally hundreds of signs on the wall. OK, let’s try coolest bottle, but that didn’t include what they have locked away. OK, screw it, Adler. Yes, Adler, ok Adler. OK Adler…stop repeating me Ron! The beer lantern lit my way and Adler it was. Went down way too fast so back and this time it’s Tuborg. I like the guy on the sign, ok, now let’s try Luxembourg. That’s it, small rich countries, let’s drink to them. Mousel will do. Needless to say, we staggered out sometime later, having thoroughly enjoyed our beer tour. And then we hit the light at the exit, our eye have to adjust. How do these monks do it? I guess that’s why they always look so chubby. Oh…that’s right, we should have gotten some of the Friar beer…what ever it’s called. OK tomorrow…stop repeating me Ron!

For our stay in Brussels, we have 2 nights at the Hotel Metropole. Getting to the hotel from Franchorchamps involved a pretty spirited 2 hour drive, including chasing down a Ferrari 430 down on the E40, topping over 170mph! wait…what’s that…oh, that’s kilometers? What’s that…some thing like….105mph. Oh, ok! For a Jeep Renegade, not bad!

Yet getting to the hotel from all the  major construction going on in the Place De Brouckere proved another matter. With the construction, we circled around 2 or 3 times trying to figure it all out. With those huge bags, we were not able to pull up in front of the hotel, so we had to stop down the street and have a bellman come out and assist us. And what an assist it was. This bellman, dressed in the classic red, black and gold trim jacket, walking down this construction thorough fare with the large brass luggage cart, once again the travel gods have smiled upon us. Already were feeling like VIP as people walking by us and look up and smile at us. We get to the hotel and the gentleman at the front desk is more than courteous,  he’s downright jovial! Europe has it down when it comes to hospitality. Everyone is just so friendly and welcoming, it really makes a difference. We get up to the room and yeah, my good karma is on fire. We walked into the room and walk down the hallway, wow, a hallway! When we get into the main room, what is spread out in front of us is nothing but classic European luxury. The room, just a basic room mind you, is more like a junior suite. Luxuriously appointed and very, very spacious. You should be here!

The room contains small desk and chair for some business writing, and lounge for relaxing, 2 chairs for sitting and a nice, big time king size bed for sleeping. The bed is wonderfully soft and supportive and well appointed, accompanied by our chandelier. Yes, we have a chandelier! Step into the bathroom, and this again, it’s  appointed with wood trim, possibly Teak or maybe Belgium Fir, and marble. Polished chrome fixtures add a nice touch. Nice indeed!

Although the bathroom is generous and spacious, there’s only a huge tub. It looks more like a Jacuzzi tub, but no actual shower. So I guess this is Euro fashion, where you stand in the tub with the handheld and take your own shower. OK, when in Europe, do with the Europeans do, it’s bathtime!

The hotel itself was built back in 1895, and is historically modern. One of the cool features is the small elevator. Probably the original Otis elevator built back in the early 1900’s. Hmmm…plaque says 1970, close enough. The elevator still has the two-part door where you open the clear door to walk in, close it, and then pull close the collapsing metal railing before pressing the floor buttons. I haven’t seen this in so long and it is a bit nostalgic, although it’s also a bit tiny. But then, it’s not like I’m traveling with the soccer team, so fine by me. I love the decor.

Time for a beer and we head over to the bar which is incredible. The bar and restaurant, Cafe Metropole, is classic European. High ceilings give the place incredible volume, and the wood trim, all of it ornate, is elegantly detailed. Very classy indeed. For sure, this calls for a nice cool beer, a traditional blonde, please. The bar tendered brings over an Omer, and we just relax and take it in. wow, I’m staying here for the next days, this trip is going to be awesome!

Brussels or Bruxelles, contrary to popular belief, is an awesome city! And I say that as someone who has been to Brussels. Several people mentioned that Brussels was dead and boring, with not much to do, so you’re better off checking out other Belgium locations like Antwerp or Bruges. But this turned out to be the understatement of our vacation. The city starts off as a modern metropolis, then turns old world medieval, then modern, then medieval. A fascinating melding of the two which in turn makes it a mind expanding town to explore. First off,  it’s historic nature alone puts it in league with other world-class destinations.

Founded in 979, yes nine hundred seventy-nine, there are plenty of historical markers all around.  Most of what we see as modern-day Brussels, really kicked off in the early 13th century.  And that’s what I love about it: surrounding those historical markers is a thriving modern metropolis. How the two coexist is the beauty of Brussels. I love glass and steel. I love old wood trim. And Brussels gives me both. The capital, well tell that to Bruges, is a city that, and I quote, “We have no national language. We speak Dutch, French, English and beer.” And that was the customs agent when I asked him! I love this place!

Brussels, or Bruxelles, depending on which mile market….uh kilometer market you pass, has everything you want in a classic European city. Old medieval churches, check. Old city halls converted into museums, got it. Narrow cobble stone streets leading to underground beer halls, double-check.

I was told previously that there isn’t much to do in Brussels, it’s just another European city. Although the advice did lead to a day trip to Bruges, Brussels being just another Euro city couldn’t be further from the truth. Brussels is an exciting and vibrant city to hang out in and you could easily spend several days exploring. We had a day and two nights in the city, and we did make the most of it with a couple of restaurant excursions, a nighttime walking tour which was awesome, roaming the central markets, hitting a couple of beer spots, and just taking in the city. I wish I could’ve spent a week here, I would’ve had plenty to do and see.

One of the main tourist attractions in central Brussels, is the Grand Place. This giant square represents the old open market of ancient Brussels. Imagine this massive open space with the city buildings, the City Hall, House of Parliament, the Guild Houses, other government offices, and a Starbucks! Wow!!! (snark-snark) This is just one massive open air market for vendors of all sorts. Fish stalls, flowers, meat, fruit and vegetables all came here in the old world Swapmeet of sorts. Now days, it houses tourists doing selfies and visiting the museums. But they still have some art vendors to pickup lovely posters of Brussels scenery.

The buildings are sculpted with figurines and statues gilded in gold, and it provides quite a vision. There are thousands, I’m sure tens of thousands, of carvings added to the outside of the walls of the government buildings and churches. Each building has all sorts of monks, laborers, gargoyles and tapestries attached that I’m sure they have all sorts of stories to tell. Looking back, these were probably the first makings of graffitied buildings. But instead of spraying or painting, the churches and ministries of the time, they added these sculptures provided by the masons of the day. I guess this is why they are so secretive.

But the most famous sculpture in all of Brussels, some even say Belgium, even more say the entire European continent, has to be Menneken Pis. This small statue, the subject of visitations from people all over the world and a tribute to the sense of humor of the Belgian people, is a mystery and a revelation to all. It is not quite clear when the statue was built, and why. Documents show the statue being built in 1615, but it was also mentioned in text as early as 1451.

Maniken Peace

But why is still a mystery. Several legends have completely distinctive origins. One legend indicates that when Brussels was under attack by forces planting explosives, a small boy spied upon them and urinated to douse the fuse. Another story is of a wealthy merchant who’s small child was lost in the city and was found pissing in a small garden by the search party. The merchant thankful, decided to have a statue built to commemorate the event. This seems a little more feasible, but either way, the statue has been a beloved monument for hundreds of years and shows the humor and otherwise light-hearted good nature of the people of Brussels. You don’t keep a pissing statue around for some 600 hundred years unless you have an entire culture of good natured humor.